ADDING KEYLESS ENTRY

For the Delica L300

For this installation only the master actuator in the kit is required, as the passenger door and sliding door have existing lock actuators driven by the drivers side key.  This kit includes outputs for trunk actuators and flashers. The trunk actuator output will be wired into the trunk lock switch on the dashboard and utilize the existing trunk actuator.  The flashers will be wired into the hazard lamp switch, so that the marker lights blink when unlock or lock signal is sent from the fob.

Tools & Parts:

Door Card Removal:

1. Remove the armrest plugs (shown above in red) with a flat head screwdriver and remove the Philips head screws that are behind them.

2. Using a flat head screwdriver pop open the screw cover and unscrew the Phillips head screw (shown above in green) securing the door handle bezel.

  • The door handle will stay on the door when the card is removed.

3. Remove the door handle bezel by holding the handle open and sliding it off.

4. Unscrew the door lock stem (shown above in blue). This is just a plastic cap screwed to a threaded shaft.

5. Undo the plastic clips (clip locations shown above in red) using the panel popper tools.  DO NOT USE A SCREWDRIVER. A screwdriver will break the clips and possibly damage the door card.

  • The door card should now be free floating.

6. Unplug the interior door lamp harness (shown above in blue).

7. Lift the door card up to remove it from the door.

  • There is a lip at the top which secures it to the door.

Door Actuator Installation:

1. Peel back, but do not remove the plastic moisture barrier to expose the mechanism.

2. Pop off the wiring harness connector/box by squeezing the clip (shown below in red) with pliers.

3. Remove the metal rod that goes from the latch mechanism to the lock by un-clipping the white plastic retainer clip (shown below in red).

4. Remove the metal rod.

5. Using a coupler attach one of the connecting rods from the kit as shown below.

  • Do this at the lowest part of the “vertical” portion towards the threaded portion of the rod (before the bend)
  • The force on the lock should be purely vertical

6. Cut the bottom end of the newly attached rod off and add a coupler from the kit as shown below.

7. Reassemble the rods to back to the latch assembly and lock outlet, then reattach the white plastic clip

8. Mock up where the master actuator (the one with 4 wires) will sit.

  • This will use another rod from the kit
  • Orient the actuator as shown below to clear other components and window on the inside of the door

9. Measure and drill 2X 3/16” holes to mount the actuator, as shown below. Overall location is not critical, but the holes must align with the actuator.

10. Use provided screws to mount the actuator on the inside of the door as shown below.

11. Trim and adjust the rod at the coupler so that it is unlocked when the actuator is fully extended, and locks when the actuator is fully retracted.

  • Ensure that the newly installed rods do not hit any of the existing mechanisms within the door. The rod should be oriented as shown in below in red. The rods can also be bent to avoid these mechanisms if necessary.

12. To test the system, wire the controller to a 12V supply and connect to the master actuator to the controller as specified in the kit instructions. All locks should activate as they are slaves to the driver door.

13. Replace the connector box which was removed in Step 2

Wiring:

There are two ways to wire the unit. The first is the easy way, in which the module is wired to the red lamp on the door. This is fed with a constant +12V source and switched ground. This method will put the unit and all wiring inside the drivers door. Lamps/flashers will not be hooked up. The module is wired to chassis ground and spliced into the constant +12V source (using s quick splice or soldered connection).

The second method is outlined below. This method mounts the unit inside the cabin and runs wires into the door. Wires here are hooked up to the lamps, allowing them to flash when the vehicle is unlocked/locked. This is a more complete install, but the wiring is more involved and will require snaking and splicing.

1. Remove the marker lamp and trim by unscrewing the three round head Philips head screws shown below in red.

  • DO NOT unscrew the headlight alignment screws. These have a hexagonal head.

2. Unclip the two wiring harnesses to the lamp assembly and remove the entire thing.

3. You can now view the door harness and entry point of the wiring to the interior as shown below in red. This is wires will be run through here to connect the master actuator to control unit.

4. Remove the Driver-side speaker cover (2 Philips head screws) and speaker (2 Philips head screws) to get access to the entry point as shown below.

5. Trim off the extra 3 Blue and Green wires from the controller harness and electrical tape up exposed wires as shown below.

  • Only one set is needed since only one actuator is being installed.
  • Make sure to keep the wires that are the same length as the corresponding white and brown wires that go to the master actuator.

6. Using an exacto knife make a cut in the rubber grommet as shown below.

  • This is where the wires will be run through.

7. Cut the hook off of the metal coat hanger, straighten it out and bend a hook in on end as shown below. This is the snake.

7. Feed the hooked end through the hole you made in the grommet and into the cabin.  Locate the hook behind the dash and reach into the “speaker hole” to pull it through as shown below.

8. Hook the 4 master actuator wires from the harness onto your snake and pull them through as shown below.

  • Pinching the hook shut with pliers will help to avoid snagging. 
  • Make sure to watch as you pull to avoid snagging any other existing wires behind the dash.

9. Unwrap the existing electrical tape on the existing door wiring flex tube and pull it out of its “U shaped” mounting location to gain access as shown below in red.

10. Remove the door end of the wiring flex tube from the door. It will just pop out as shown below

11. Straighten out the end of the snake and feed it through the wiring flex tube starting at the cabin side as shown below.

  • The cabin side of the wiring flex tube is narrower, so starting here is easier.

12. Cut the connectors off of the wires so that they can be pulled through the wiring flex tube as shown below.

  • This is necessary as the connectors will not fit through the flex tube.

13. Re-bend the snake hook and pull the wires through as shown below.
– it will be easier to pull 2 wires at a time, rather than all 4 at once.

14. Using the snake, pull all the wires into the door and reattach the wiring flex tube to the door as shown below.

15. Secure the newly ran wires to the existing harness with electrical tape to ensure that the wires will not be damaged as shown below.

16. Replace the wiring flex tube on both the door side and cabin side.


17. Extend the wires to the master actuator using either solder or solderless connectors and reattach the connectors as shown below. Leave a little slack.

18. Secure the newly ran wires to the existing harness with electrical tape as shown below.

19. Replace the moisture barrier. this may require tape to replace the old adhesive as shown below.

  • Do not tape over the holes for the plastic clips.

20. Re-attach the door card. Press the clips to put them back into place.

System Integration:

1. Using a flat head screwdriver, pop open the hazard lamp and wiper switch trim bezel as shown below. This will provide easy access to the connectors.

2. Run the snake from the hazard switch location to the speaker hole switch location as shown below.

  • Prebending the snake will help it reach the speaker hole.

3. Pull the Power, Ground and Lamp wires thorough from the speaker hole to the hazard switch location as shown below.

  • This kit came with a pink signal wire that split into two leads.  I cut and taped one, since only one wire is needed when tapping into the hazard switch.

4. Splice the power, ground and lamp signal wires into the switch by soldering or using solderless quick splices to their respective wires coming from the hazard switch connector using the pinout below.

  • The lamp signal controls the front lower white fog lights and rear brake light, not the actual turn signals.  I couldn’t get that to work from the hazard light switch (probably because there is a flasher relay somewhere in the circuit).  If you really want the turn signals to flash, then you must run the pink wire(s) directly into both sides of the car’s turn signals.

5. Secure all connections and replace the hazard lamp connector and switch assembly back into the dash.

6. Plug the wiring harness into the control module.

7. Tape the unused speaker and brown and white wire outputs as shown below.

  • Leave the Trunk signal wire free for later installation if.
  • If you don’t want to wire the trunk, then tape this up also.

8. The whole system can now be tested! Press the lock/unlock button on the fob.

9. Unplug the control module and run the harness and connector down to the fusebox, located above the accelerator pedal.

10. Plug the control module back in and find a suitable mounting location near the fusebox. Secure it with zip ties.

  • Make sure the mounting location has easy access in the case that the fobs need to be reprogrammed.

11. Replace the speaker and speaker cover.