A common problem with the gate latches on the L300 Delica is that the mechanism is located on the outside of the weather stripping seal. This results in exposure to the elements. Dirt, grime and corrosion get into the non-serviceable mechanism and cause problems. If your gate latch is sticky or if it takes multiple slams to get it to close properly, then replacing it may be a good option.
Note: I ordered the replacement part: PN MB537417 (available in the US). I used the EPC to look up the PN for my van. Unfortunately, even though this is was the listed PN, it was missing the electrical switch for the “gate lock” lamp on the dash. The new latch was 100% mechanically functional. Never the less, I swapped over the switch from the original latch to the new latch.
There are several equivalent PNs listed for the latch, So maybe I choose the wrong one, which had no switch.
Tools & Parts:
- Replacement latch assy (MB537417 or equivalent)
- 10mm socket & ratchet
- Philips screwdriver
- Miniature flat head screwdriver
- Drill & drill bits (~4mm & ~5mm)
- m4 tap & handle
- m4x8 socket head cap screw (Maybe nylon-see step 13)
- m4x20 socket head cap screw
- Remove interior gate handle and interior trim using a Philips head screwdriver.
2. Use a panel popper to remove the door card. Plastic clips are located around the perimeter.
3. If your van has a 3rd brake light it will need to be removed. Press the center of the plastic clips to loosen them, then carefully pry around the edges to extract them.
4. Remove the two Philips head screws to remove the lamp assembly. Under the 3rd brake light lies the manual lock button. I guess they never decided to change this (stupid). They just left it as an artifact from vans that had no 3rd brake light. Unscrew the lock button from it’s shaft. If its stuck use pliers.
5. Release the plastic clips that attach to the lock actuator, lock cylinder, and exterior gate handle. This is a pain in the ass, but can be accomplished with a small screwdriver and nimble hands. Be careful as the plastic tends to be brittle!
Once un-clipped, pop the rods out of their respective clips.
6. Remove the 3 10mm bolts that secure the latch mechanism to the bottom of the gate.
7. Pull the latch mechanism out a few inches and disconnect the two connectors. Red=gate lock switch, Yellow=open door switch
8. The latch mechanism is now free. Extract it from the gate.
Here is where I noticed the difference between the two parts. As you can see the new latch is missing the lock switch components, but has the mounting locations.
9. To remove the original switch, drill out the rivet head with a 4mm drill bit.
The new latch is missing two features. An alignment pin hole (Shown in red) and a pin to actuate the switch (shown in blue). Both of these must be recreated.
10. The new latch has holes where the pin and rivet were located on the original switch. Tap both of these with an m4 thread, the existing holes are about the same size as an m4 tap drill.
11. Drill a 5mm hole for the alignment pin.
12. Screw in the m4x20 screw from behind. This will replicate the contact pin on the original latch.
13. Check the plastic cover to ensure that the isolation sleeve is in-tact. This stops the metal contacts from grounding out to the screw. If yours is damaged or broke off during removal, simply replace the metal m4x8 screw in the parts list with a plastic/nylon equivalent. This will eliminate any chance of shorting.
14. Use the m4x8 screw to attach the original switch components to the new latch. Ensure the components are in the correct order.
15. Check to make sure the screw does not interfere with the other components of the latch. If it does, file/trim the screw down. It should be flush with the back of the tapped hole.
16. Wooo, that was annoying, time to re-install! Watch the locking arm and feed it through the hole on the gate sill.
17. With everything re-assembled, test the latch, handles and locks. If the latch does not close fully or takes multiple attempts, then the striker plate will need to be adjusted. Loosen the two 10mm bolts and slide the striker plate to adjust. It will likely need to go outward if you are having latching issues.
